Hands arranging a richly patterned Ikat warp

From cotton to cloth

The Ikat Process

Explore how Sumba ikat is made through seven stages and 28 steps, from preparing cotton and tying motifs to natural dyeing, weaving and finishing.

A living sequence

See how Sumba ikat is made in East Sumba: seven stages carry the cloth from cotton and resist tying through natural dyeing and weaving to the finished fringe.

Stage 01 / 07 · 1 step

Preparation

The cloth begins with cotton. Fibres are spun into yarn with simple tools, then wound by hand into compact balls. This patient first stage gives the weaver an even, dependable thread and keeps a close connection between the material and the hands that prepare it.

A participant and teacher winding cotton yarn together

Steps in this stage

Kabukul

Preparing the cotton yarn

Cotton is spun into yarn and wound into compact balls by hand.

Make it yourself

Workshops for this stage

Women arranging white warp threads on a wooden frame

6 hours · East SumbaFull-Day Ikat Experience

2 days · East Sumba2-Day Intensive Ikat Masterclass

Stage 02 / 07 · 6 steps

Drawing preparation

Before a motif can be drawn, the warp must become a steady canvas. Threads are measured, grouped, layered and tightened on a frame. Ties and bamboo markers hold their position and divide the warp into drawing spaces, so one careful design can guide several matching lengths of cloth.

Hands marking the divisions on stretched cotton threads

Steps in this stage

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Pamening

Setting the warp

The warp threads are measured and arranged with even spacing and tension.

Two women securing groups of white warp threads

Karandi Rumata

Securing thread groups

Thread groups are tied to keep the prepared warp in position.

Hands tying and separating layers of cotton yarn

Pandapil

Combining layers

Several layers of thread can be combined so one design can guide multiple cloths.

A woman separating white strands across her lap

Kawari

Tidying the threads

The thread strands are carefully tidied and separated.

Two women tightening white warp threads on a frame

Patanggi

Tightening the threads

Threads are tightened on the frame before the motif is drawn.

Karandi

Making drawing columns

Bamboo and ties divide the threads into clear spaces for drawing.

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Workshops for this stage

6 hours · East SumbaFull-Day Ikat Experience

2 days · East Sumba2-Day Intensive Ikat Masterclass

Stage 03 / 07 · 2 steps

Drawing

A motif takes shape on the prepared threads. A specialist may draw it first, while some experienced weavers tie directly from memory. The lines are then bound with kalita or raffia so selected parts resist dye. Tying can be repeated when a design calls for several colours.

Steps in this stage

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Menggambar

Drawing the motif

A motif is drawn on the prepared threads before tying; experienced weavers may also work directly without a drawing.

Hands tying blue resist bindings around white threads

Hondung (Ikat)

Resist tying

Thread sections are bound with kalita or raffia so they resist the dye.

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Workshops for this stage

6 hours · East SumbaFull-Day Ikat Experience

2 days · East Sumba2-Day Intensive Ikat Masterclass

A drawn bird motif on white threads, ready for resist tying

6 hours · East SumbaMotif & Design Specialty Workshop

Women smiling as they work indigo leaves together in a green basin

6 hours · East SumbaIndigo Dyeing Workshop

Two women preparing morinda roots together outdoors

Full day · East SumbaMorinda Dyeing Workshop

Stage 04 / 07 · 1 step

Colouring

Colour is built slowly from plants and repeated immersion. Indigo gives the deep blues of Sumba; morinda root gives red. Each has its own preparation, and morinda may require a kemiri oil treatment before dyeing. Weather, drying time and repeated dips all influence the final depth of colour.

A woman lifting reddish yarn from a natural dye bath

Steps in this stage

Pencelupan Warna

Natural dyeing

Natural colours, including indigo blue and morinda red, are built through preparation and repeated dyeing.

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Workshops for this stage

6 hours · East SumbaIndigo Dyeing Workshop

Full day · East SumbaMorinda Dyeing Workshop

3 days · East SumbaNatural Dye Masterclass

Stage 05 / 07 · 12 steps

Preparing to weave

After dyeing, the resist ties are opened and the layered warp is separated. The motif is brought back into alignment, the yarn is strengthened with starch and individual strands are freed again. Guide threads, bamboo and prepared weft then ready the loom for the first pass.

Hands straightening a white motif on dark warp threads

Steps in this stage

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A woman opening the resist ties on patterned yarn

Katahu

Opening the ties

The resist ties are opened to reveal the protected motif.

A woman separating layers of dyed Ikat threads

Biara

Separating the layers

The combined thread layers are separated into individual cloth lengths.

Hands aligning patterned threads across a wooden frame

Walahu

Restoring motif alignment

Threads are spread on a frame and the motif is brought back into alignment.

Pamiarang

Arranging the motif

The motif is straightened and arranged before weaving.

Hands securing patterned threads along a bamboo rod — Still from the supplied process film

Karandi Tinung

Securing threads for weaving

Threads are secured on bamboo so they stay in place at the loom.

A woman applying starch to patterned warp threads — Still from the supplied process film

Kanji atau Kawu

Strengthening with starch

Cooked starch is applied to strengthen the yarn before it is dried.

A woman separating indigo warp threads outdoors

Kawari

Separating starched strands

Stuck strands are separated by hand after starching.

Fingers checking individual strands in the warp

Hira

Checking the warp

The warp is checked for broken or attached threads.

Hands using a fine bamboo tool to separate dark threads

Hura

Separating fine threads

A fine bamboo tool separates individual threads.

Pawunang

Making guide threads

Guide threads are prepared for the weaving tools.

Hands winding weft yarn onto a wooden stick

Hawulur Pamawang

Preparing the weft

Weft yarn is wound onto a stick.

A woman weaving indigo cloth on a backstrap loom

Pababat / Parabat

Beginning the weave

A slim bamboo piece marks the beginning of weaving.

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Workshops for this stage

2 days · East Sumba2-Day Intensive Ikat Masterclass

Stage 06 / 07 · 1 step

Weaving

On the loom, the weft crosses the prepared warp one pass at a time. The many earlier decisions about thread, motif and colour finally meet in cloth. Weaving requires a steady rhythm and close attention so the pattern holds together along the full length.

Steps in this stage

Tenun / Tinung

Weaving the cloth

Weft crosses the warp on the loom to create cloth.

Make it yourself

Workshops for this stage

6 hours · East SumbaFull-Day Ikat Experience

3 hours · East SumbaHalf-Day Introductory Workshop

2 days · East Sumba2-Day Intensive Ikat Masterclass

Stage 07 / 07 · 5 steps

Finishing

The woven length is released from the loom and made into the form it will be used in. Matching panels may be sewn into a Hinggi, or cloth may be joined into a Lau. Edges are secured, loose fringe is twisted into groups, and the ends are smoothed by hand.